It might be the CPU, but it might be something else. On the old CPU, update the OS, update the BIOS, and run fwupd or boot Windows temporarily to update all other firmware. Then run memtest and a cpu stress test to make sure you’re not just triggering an existing hardware issue.

If that’s all clean, put in the new CPU and run memtest and a cpu stress test to see where you get issues.

You could set the password to be the same. It’ll attempt to use all known methods when unlocking it.

You can also probably store a key on the root drive instead of using a password, but I’ve never done that.

Please no. I can’t grep that. (Nor ingest it to splunk for more powerful searching.)

What, exactly, are you running? What is it doing?

I just don’t see the advantage of shoehorning graphics backwards into text interfaces when we’ve got an entire integrated graphical desktop.

Very Doubtful

Disconnect the other drive when you do it and you’ll be fine.

Images in the terminal? At that point you’re just reinventing the GUI.

SMART data can be hard to read. But it doesn’t look like any of the normalized values are approaching the failure thresholds. It doesn’t show any bad sectors. But it does show read errors.

I would check the cable first, make sure it’s securely connected. You said it clicks sometimes, but that could be normal. Check the kernel log/dmesg for errors. Keep an eye on the SMART values to see if they’re trending towards the failure thresholds.

I don’t understand the purpose of this post

I did. They bought on Newegg, which is a platform. Some items are shipped and sold by Newegg, some are third-party, just like Amazon. OP did not confirm who actually fulfilled the order in the post.

Yeah if it doesn’t even boot something as basic as freedos it’s probably not a configuration issue. You can try resetting the BIOS and pulling the battery, and of course try a different USB stick if you haven’t already.

But if it’s not even booting a previously good OS it might be that the board died.

That should be correct. What desktop is it exactly? Are you using the current OS versions? Does it boot from USB if you try older ones, Windows 7, or even freedos?

Call me blind if you will, but I don’t see anywhere you’ve said exactly how they’re packed. One place you said “only air bubbles”, but another place you mentioned boxes. All I’m asking is that you bring all the complete relevant information to the table in the first place.

Edit: okay that’s not all I’m asking. I’m also asking for test data on the received drives, so that we can determine whether the packaging was fit for purpose.

If you rejected the drives out of hand, then it’s impossible to say the packaging was obviously faulty.

You also did not answer my question about how exactly they were packaged. The plastic clamshell is generally fit for purpose and I doubt WD, Seagate, etc. would continue using packaging that resulted in high rates of failure. If you wish to contest that assumption, prove it with data.

I’m sure they can and do. I have never received a defective drive purchased new, through I don’t even know how many desktops, servers, and storage systems. Even drives preinstalled in desktops with no extra packaging have run perfectly well for years. I can count on one finger the number of hard drive failures in those desktops I’ve seen in the last decade.

Yes, I read and understood what you said. If the packaging was obviously faulty, that means the drives were rendered unfit. If the drives were determined to be fit for purpose, that means that packaging was sufficient and not faulty. Hard drives are not eggshells, they are designed to survive FedEx punting them onto your porch.

If you want to play the combative game and accuse each other of disregarding each others’ comments, I will ask again the question you did not answer: do the drives not function, or do they fail any SMART test? If you are accusing your suppliers of being inadequate, please, support that with data.

Why do you say “obviously faulty”? Do the drives not function, or do they fail any SMART test?

Yes, the seller is Newegg, but they’re a marketplace like Amazon. Check who fulfills the order.

rattling around unprotected in their boxes

If they’re in OEM packaging (cardboard box and formed clamshell plastic for individual drives, I assume, since you said “boxes”) that’s totally acceptable. If you put a shock sensor in the box at the origin, you wouldn’t see anything particularly bad even if the box fell off the truck. F=m*a, and with small m (a few drives) and small a (not falling very far) then F is going to be pretty small too.

Why is your router doing TLS termination? Stop that.