shouldn’t Newegg of all places

Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.

Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.

Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.

Don’t worry about how a video card was used. Unless it was handled by howtobasic, they’re gonna break long after they’re obsolete. You might worry about a bad firmware setup, but you avoid that by looking at the seller rating, not the video card.

there’s an argument to be made that a mining gpu is actually the better card to buy since they never went hot>cold>hot>cold (thus stressing the solder joints) like a regular user would do. But it’s just that; an argument. I have yet to find a well researched article on the effects of long-term gaming as compared to long term mining, but I can tell you that the breaking point for either is long after you would have kept the card in use, even second or third hand.

I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.

You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.

The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.

Just think of your point that they are using residential IP addresses. How do they get these addresses?

You can ping all of the ipv4 addresses in under an hour. If all you’re looking for is publicly available words written by people, you only have to poke port 80 and then suddenly you have practically every possible small self-hosted website out there.

I have the previous model. It does a great job of playing videos from my server in the other room. It technically can do YouTube, but that’s a pretty horrible experience. It can’t do any other paid streaming services.

But it does do an amazing job of local streaming. It handles most all of the audio and video codecs, and can direct stream just about any video file without too much playing around. I like mine, and definitely recommend it for anyone who also wants a trustworthy local media player.

It really depends on the model. Best to pay attention to it like the previous comment mentioned.

The best way to meet your low power requirement, which you listed as the most important, is by having flash storage. The other half of this is that used hardware is going to be worse at power management than an SBC too. It may be worth doing the math to see how long the power draw difference will take to even out the cost of using flash storage instead of magnetic storage.

The other part of this is that you could just grab a 2.5" hard drive and split the difference on price/GB. https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xCKhP6/seagate-barracuda-5tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st5000lm000 start with two, and if you run out of space, or obtain more money, add two more from a different brand.

I use syncthing to keep all my documents and pictures synced between my devices.

It’s so the container has the correct local time. It doesn’t matter unless you’re trying to schedule things in the container and don’t want to calculate the offset every time you do.

Brother laser printers last for years without issue. My point was that so long as you put in a little effort to find something that isn’t cheap shit you can actually get a product without any major issues.

Cheap wireless earbuds will fail, and will cause all sorts of frustration. On the other hand, well sourced earbuds will work for years without problems, just like printers.

My wireless g304 has been rock solid for years now. The battery lasts about 48 hours of active use before needing to be recharged. My Logitech ergo lift mouse has been rock solid for the past year as well and it’s still running on it’s very first battery!

I bought both for wrist pain reasons and for the most part they have also been very helpful for that too. Part of the reason I went wireless even for gaming is that the cable always dragged and caused issues with the mouse catching on occassion. It’s very worth whatever “instability” you might see for any product that moves.

My wireless earbuds have been rock solid for several years as well. As far as I’m concerned, wireless has been a solved problem for a little while now, similar to printers. There’s no point in needing a battery for something that doesn’t move, like a keyboard, but damn if it isn’t really nice for something that does.

Network paths in libraries have been fully removed and will no longer work. This functionality has been deprecated for a long time, and most of it was removed in 10.9.0, but this removes the remainder. See PR #12446. Third-party clients relying on this functionality should be able to re-implement it as required.

from the article.

Shame about the network location regression. That’s the only thing that keeps my kodi device from taking 5-15 seconds to load each sub menu.

It didn’t actually. If it had, I wouldn’t have pulled up my podcast app to find and listen to this episode, only to find that it didn’t exist.

Ah. I get it. Pet peeves do be the worst sometimes.

They really aren’t that far off… https://robindev.substack.com/p/cloudflare-took-down-our-website

Yup. If the sd card doesnt have enough space for everything, you could attach an m.2 hat to it as well. https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/using-m-2-hat-with-raspberry-pi-5/

Basically, jellyfin on the pi, with the wifi setup as an access point, and whatever amount of storage you need. The pi requires 5v/5a, so you’ll probably run into issues running off the car usb power, but a cheap 30amp hour battery should run it for 6-10 hours if my napkin math is right.

I’ve been on LMDE for several years now and had no major issues with my 1080. But also I have no idea if I had to do anything to get it started.